5 Comments
Apr 12, 2020Liked by Tony Traina

Many thanks for the Zenith 146 (Martel-UG 285) profile, Tony; couldn't agree more with your assessment, both on form and function. My Cal 156D is among the simplest yet most classic of my collection and certainly my favorite of the pack... an underappreciated piece of horological history to be sure, and more importantly a sheer pleasure to wear.

Cheers, SB

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Thanks for the kind words! A UG 285 is next on my list now (maybe in rose gold?) ☺️

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Apr 19, 2020Liked by Tony Traina

Good choice, must confess I share a weakness for that look. My156D is cased in 38mm SS, but the hr markers & Dauphine hands are rose gold and manage to really pop yet maintain restraint. And recently picked up an early Lemania CH27-C12 in 18k RG; more refined than the Zenith's pilot styling, but equally understated. Speaking of which I just read your retort to that dreadful WSJ article, glad to see you take it to task. Concur entirely, frankly I found its recommendations as suspect and superficial as its premise...

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haha thanks for the kind words, and wear that UG in good health!

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I stumbled upon this article looking for informations regarding a watch i just purchased.

It’s an Universal Geneve from the ‘90 (weird), reference 885016, but it’s equipped with the Zenith caliber 146H. I was surprised to see it there, first because it’s a manual caliber made in the ‘40 to ‘60, second because it’s code 146 as per Zenith instead of 285!

Do you happen to know this piece and how it’s origin came to be?

Your article is great, by the way!

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